We arrived by train into Seoul (five minutes late, which would have been unheard of in Japan). After dumping our stuff at the Backpackers Hostel, we headed out to a nearby palace called Gyeongbokgung to see the colourful changing of the guards. It was even more visually stunning for its backdrop (see picture). It is a huge palace complex containing large courtyards, and a maze-like complex of pagodas and other buildings, a wonderful place to spend the afternoon exploring. Towards sunset, we caught a taxi up to Seoul Tower cable car. Seoul Tower (closed at the moment) is on top of a hill called Namsan from where you can get stunning views of the city, according to the guidebook. Unfortunately, it was incredibly hazy, even murkier than Tokyo had been. It gave the city a rather mysterious air. On the way back to the hostel, we wandered down a lovely street that is pedestrianised at the weekend. It is full of craft shops, galleries, restaurants, and street vendors selling all sorts of fayre, such as fried fish, fried rice sweets, and skewered meats. A wonderfully atmospheric (and aromatic) walk. We walked on further to find an internet cafe, and found ourselves in an area full of international chain stores (we saw Clarkes shoes), neon, and noise. A slight clash of styles for the evening!